Monday, August 06, 2007

the other side of the story, "A Friendship Too Tight for Breathing Room" as published in the NYT.

A Friendship Too Tight for Breathing Room

By JESSIE SHOLL
Published: August 5, 2007
IT began like many other romances: an introduction at a party. She and I slid quickly into an easy banter, drifting from the food table to the bar to the couch, smiling and laughing, the sparks between us practically visible. Anyone could see we were falling for each other. There was just one thing: neither of us was a lesbian.

I’ve always been a sucker for someone who could make me laugh. This time, though, it wasn’t so much that she was hilarious, which she was. It was something about the two of us together.

We had chemistry — a chemistry that wrapped a tight nest around us and kept everyone else out. By the end of the night, we had managed to annoy and alienate pretty much everyone present. It was the beginning of our platonic love affair.

Each in our mid-20s and relatively new to San Francisco, she and I soon entered the “we” stage, calling each other to say, “What should we do this weekend?” never “What are you doing?” She became my permanent date to parties and on nights out, my surrogate spouse, and I hers.

At Christmas, when both of us were too broke to fly home to our families, we celebrated together, drinking cheap Champagne and eating the curried chicken she had taught me to make. She gave me vintage dresses wrapped in paper she had painted, and I gave her art supplies for the intricate pointillist drawings she had begun to compose.

Our love affair even weathered my cross-country move to New York for graduate school three years after we met. We visited whenever we could and called each other constantly; one Thanksgiving we talked on the phone for three or four hours straight, both of us eating takeout turkey sandwiches.

In terms of men, we were always searching, but the dates themselves weren’t what we were after. Instead, we were scavenging for humorous anecdotes to bring back to the nest and present to each other like sustenance: He kisses like a kitten lapping up milk. His bookshelves are filled with romance novels. He refuses to take off his hipster cowboy hat even during sex.

Looking back, it’s shocking that anyone would even have wanted to date either of us while we were clearly so wrapped up in each other.

Closer than sisters, we always said. For five years she and I were in a sort of love, beyond best friends. And then, suddenly, it ended.

She had been invited to tour with a rock band in Europe, and she asked me if I wanted to meet her in Prague, a city we had vowed to visit together years earlier after seeing photographs from a friend’s trip. Of course I said yes.

I watched all the performances, proudly cheering on my best friend. Then, on the third and final night (I was leaving early the next morning for Paris, where I had plans, and she was heading to the next leg of the tour), I happened to sit next to an American guy, and during the intermission we started talking. It turned out that David lived in San Francisco, just down the street from where I used to live, and he was in Prague for the summer.

I asked if he knew of any dance clubs, and he spent the next five minutes drawing a map of all the good ones on a napkin. After the show ended and my friend came out from backstage, I invited David to come with us, thinking at least that way we wouldn’t get lost.

Unfortunately none of the clubs were open, so David took us to the Chapeau Rouge, a raucous expatriate-filled bar. There was no dance floor. But she and I cleared a space in the middle of the room, drawing on our full capacity for obnoxiousness by hollowing our cheeks to give us supermodel cheekbones and sashaying dramatically back and forth, imitating the 80s music videos we liked to mock.

To his credit, David didn’t seem embarrassed; he smiled, laughed and even raised his glass, toasting us in Czech: “Na zdravi.”

A little later, when she went outside for some fresh air, David asked me how long the two of us had been together.

I almost choked on a sip of beer. “Oh, no, we’re just friends.”

“I hope I didn’t offend you,” he said.

“Not at all,” I said, and right then I started noticing how cute this David was.

And charming. While she stayed outside chatting, David told me about Prague. We discussed writing and the darkly funny films we both loved; he made me laugh. Our barstools inched slowly toward each other.

My friend, exhausted from performing, said she wanted to go back to the hotel. As we left the bar, I surreptitiously slipped my hand into David’s and told her I thought I would stay out a while longer.

Hours later, as David and I headed back to the hotel for my bag so he could walk me to my train, I thought about how I didn’t want to tell her about our first kiss; I didn’t want to reduce him to a gossipy anecdote. For the first time, I was coming back to our nest from a date empty-handed. What would she think? But I needn’t have worried: she barely woke up to say goodbye.

When my Paris plans unraveled, I went happily back to Prague, where David and I spent three days lingering in secret teahouses where you had to pull a silk cord to be let in, traipsing through the gargantuan chess-piece castle, and gorging on goulash with baby shots of absinthe for dessert.

And we made a decision: since I was finished with school and craving a change, I would move back to San Francisco, at least until he finished graduate school, when we would make a new plan. It would be perfect. I would be living in the same city as my new boyfriend and my best friend.

IN retrospect, I realize how naïve this was. Though I suppose on some level I knew it even then, because within days of my arrival in San Francisco, she and I had come to an unspoken understanding: I was not to mention David.

But after only a few weeks, while we were having coffee, I let it slip: “I miss David.”

She looked at me as if I had gone insane. “Didn’t you just see him this morning?”

“Yes, but. ...” I began, then changed the subject.

It wasn’t long before David and I moved in together. One night when I knew he would be working late, I invited her over for dinner. She seemed down. I suggested she go on more auditions, maybe get her tape together for voice-over work. I offered to lend her money for new head shots. The pasta I had prepared grew cold while I outlined her life, or what I thought it should be.

Before David, she wouldn’t have been bothered by my advice; after all, it was the kind of pep talk we gave each other all the time. But of course everything was different now, and instead of coming across like a helpful and sympathetic best friend, I sounded bossy and rude.

“Enough,” she finally said. “I get it.”

The next time we met was at our favorite sushi place, and she brought up an acquaintance who had started dating a new man and disappeared; we had often talked about how we detested women who did that. And then she said: “That’s what you did. You disappeared.”

I thought about all the things I had done to try to keep that from happening, yet there was no denying that part of me had disappeared, the part that was in love with David, which I had concealed from her because I sensed she didn’t want to hear about it. How badly I wanted to share all of that with my best friend, but knew I couldn’t, so I had kept it all to myself.

Suddenly I no longer could. “Do you have any idea of the pressure you’ve put me under?”

She paused, her pinkish tuna roll glinting in the candlelight. “No,” she said. “What pressure have I put you under?”

“I don’t even allow myself to mention his name around you.”

She laughed. “Are you kidding me? He’s all you talk about.”

Our conversation moved jerkily forward after that — at one point I said I wished she felt happy for me, and she took offense, but couldn’t express why. That was just it: After years of marveling at our incredible one-of-a-kind friendship, after years of using our closeness to keep others at bay, we couldn’t even speak openly about how we really felt. We didn’t know how.

AS we parted ways outside, she said it was good that we had cleared the air. I agreed enthusiastically, but our words felt hollow, fake, like something we would have said to a guy just before racing to the other’s apartment with this new and oh-so-amusing anecdote on the tips of our tongues.

Twenty-four hours later, she broke up with me. Her voice was shaky through the telephone as she said she didn’t want us to be friends anymore. And though I should have seen it coming, I was so stunned I couldn’t get sad, I couldn’t get angry. I could barely ask why.

“You expect too much of me,” she said by way of explanation, “as if I’m your family.”

The implosion of a platonic love affair is no less devastating than that of an actual one. I cried, lost weight, couldn’t sleep. My heart, or at least its vicinity, ached. I knew what she had said about thinking of her as family was just an excuse. After all, wasn’t that what we always had said, that we were closer than sisters?

Which, in the end, was too close. We had made our nest so tight, so suffocating, that there wasn’t room for anyone else; there was barely room for each of us to breathe. Of course, it doesn’t have to be this way with platonic love, and with many close friendships it isn’t. But in our case it was.

I knew one thing from our days as anecdote collectors, and she did, too: it’s better to leave than to be the one left behind. And I’m guessing that’s why she did what she did, and when. Because she knew the simple truth, even if I didn’t, or perhaps wasn’t yet able to admit to myself: I had to choose. And I already had.

Jessie Sholl is a writer who lives in New York City.

Sunday, October 01, 2006

dating


Dating is such a low yield activity. I’ve never been a big fan of dating, cause I always think I have a pretty good idea of the trajectory of a relationship before it even starts. This is probably why I get myself into so much trouble. Cause dating is all about spending an unusual amount of time with someone you barely know. So, how are you supposed to really know what’s going to happen?

I’ll admit, sometimes I get all deep and shit and think that my intuition is right on the money. “I have a feeling about this or a feeling about that.” Well shit, those gut feelings are usually totally off. So I went out with this guy last night…it was date number 3. I took him to this salsa club where a famous Cuban band was playing. I had this impression that the guy I was going out with was a little bit shy and wouldn’t want to dance. Turns out that I’m the shy, indecisive one. “Do you want some water?” he would ask. “No, I’m o.k. Well maybe. How much is the water here anyway, I bet they totally rip you off. Well I guess I’m kinda thirsty, but I’ll be o.k.” GOD, I’M SO ANNOYING. I knew damn well that I was parched and was dying for water, but already felt bad about him paying 25 bucks for me to get in. He just looked at me and laughed and asked again “So was that a yes or a no? I’ll just go get some.” We were up on the balcony looking down at the band playing…and all the people dancing. Finally he grabbed me and dragged me onto the dance floor and started dancing. He’s a Filipino guy, never been salsa dancing in his life, but shit, he had rhythm.

“I never said I couldn’t dance,” he said, “ I just said I didn’t know how to Salsa.”
I felt like such an ass, I made so many stupid assumptions. It was then that I realized I knew nothing about this guy…nothing at all. When the date was over, he sensed my obvious nervousness at the whole end-of-the-date dilemma. Would he kiss me or try to come upstairs? Two things I totally wasn’t ready for. I’m damaged goods. To say I’m guarded would be a severe understatement.

He hugged me, buried his face in my hair and told me I smelled nice. He then reached over me and opened the car door politely.

“Thank God,” I thought to myself. There’s nothing worse than kissing someone before you’re ready, cause instead of enjoying the intimacy, you get that sickish feeling in your stomach as you repeat to yourself over and over in your head “What the hell am I doing? When is he going to get his tongue out of my mouth?” Sometimes in the awkwardness of the moment you open your eyes and notice that they guy is way more into it than you are and then it’s all over. There’s no coming back from a pre-mature kiss for me. No coming back at all.

So it was a fun date. He was so cute in his punk-tight jeans, stevie wonder t-shirt, green zipped hoodie with overlying black blazer and skater shoes. He was so freaking cute. And ended up being a lot more outgoing and sexy than I thought.

But I’m just not ready, so I like the pace.

My best friend Ami told me that I should just grab him and kiss him when I’m ready. He said that when a girl does that it really empowers a guy. So I’m saving that move for when I’m ready. Hopefully he’ll hold out for that, or else there will be some serious kiss-dodging going on…another move that no relationship can ever really come back from.

The group we went to see was awesome. Check them out at:
http://www.maraca.cult.cu/

Sunday, September 03, 2006

kicking people out

over the last few months i've had to send people out of the hospital even when they have had no place to go. it never feels good.

i discharged a homeless lady that had 5 abscesses on her arms and legs that she got from shooting up heroin. she implored me to let her stay, but once we find someone a shelter bed, no matter how shitty, we have to send them out. so i sent this lady out, even though i knew she wasn't going to any of the shelters i found for her. In the morning, I was all fresh and showered, and as I walked down the long sidewalk leading up to the hospital, I looked over to the few benches underneath where people ear lunch sometimes, and there she was, clutching onto a large plastic bag of her belongings. she waved at me and called me by name. she had spent the night out there. i felt so bad.

yesterday i sent the old man home who has been sitting in a chair near the window for 3 weeks. he hadn't moved from there except to go to the bathroom. he no longer had an IV in. we were literally ignoring him everday on rounds because on our signout list he was listed as a "difficult placement". both we and the social workers had grown tired of talking to him, so we just glossed over him....for three weeks. so finally, i couldn't stand to skip over him. i sent him home...and he wasn't happy, and i couldn't figure out why he would want to be in that dirty hospital over his home, but there must have been a reason, cause he was seriously pissed at me. i found out that he had been lying to us for a while...he said that he lived on the second floor and had no way of getting up there (he broke his leg). when i talked to his son, who lives at home with him and is in his 30s, he told me that they live on the first floor. i tried and tried to get this old man to tell me why he didn't want to go home, but he refused. so i forced him out, cause the county hospital can't afford to house people that don't need to be there.

he was one guy i didn't feel bad sending home cause he lied to me. maybe i should have had more compassion cause there was probably a good reason for him to lie, but i just felt manipulated.

this month has been all about getting people out of the hospital, shortening the list of 30+ patients that we have to see everyday...and it feels so laborious. i've grown tired of actually talking to the patients. i try to avoid to talking to anyone these days, because when you have 35 patients and you spend 15 minutes talking to each one, that eats up almost 8 hours right there. so i don't talk to anyone...i barely even go into there room and look at them.

ortho is teaching me not to care.

Saturday, September 02, 2006

Swim Suits and Ice Cream by A.S.S.

My friend Amy sat down in a chair in my living room, adorning her swimsuit and proclaimed:

"I think there should be a new law. People should have to wear their swinsuits when they eat ice cream. If they can handle the view, they can continue to consume ice cream."

amen to that.

Wednesday, August 30, 2006

keeper

i am a keeper of people's stories.

there are so many of them, and they are so amazing, good or bad. i am filled with these stories and i feel more like an anthropologist or a sociologist than a doctor.

everyday i wake up and try to have the energy to listen and care and try not to ask directed questions so that the handsome 28 year old man who was in a motorcycle accident and lost his leg could tell me how his mother died of lung cancer the same year that his cerebral palsy suffering sister accidentally suffocated in her bed.

i found out today that the father of a patient i know very well has a restraining order against his son. he has been at this young man's bedside almost everyday and has done everything to help him feel less alone. he brings supplies to the hospital and cooks food for his son who complains he can't stand to eat what the hospital offers. i have seen him cry many times, holding so much suffering in his eyes.

and i didn't even know the whole story. that his son had done something so frightening that it caused him to take legal action to protect himself. now he is re-married, has other young children, and is trying to live with the burden of an abusive son.

and he is at the bedside, everyday.

i leave my coat at the hospital, and with it i try to leave much of the heaviness that i observe in people...but i can't quite shed it. i dream and the landscape is peopled with my patients.

so i will hold onto to these stories, and continue to feel that it's an honor...i just hope it doesn't become too much.

Monday, August 21, 2006

the ones that made it

i have so many stories that i have neglected to tell.

i have a few good ones, with good outcomes, which i want to relay.

last night was my last night of trauma call for a while, and it was good beacause we saved someone's life...it's always nice when that happens. because when you're on trauma, that's really what you look forward to. damage control. who know why this person shoots that person, but, as the surgeon, you open them up, and you give them back their life.

if they make it, they re-live those moments in the trauma bay over and over. us cutting off their clothes, rushing them up to the elevator, blood hanging near both hips. they re-live those moments and are thankful for their lives.

yesterday a young man what shot 5 times, and we saved him.

last week i sent home a patient that i had been following from the time i started work...from the ICU to the floor down to the discharge summary, and then packing his diapered 19 year old bottom onto a transport stretcher. when i asked if he was happy to be getting out of the hospital he shook his head and said that he was nervous and didn't want to leave. he looked over at me and grabbed my hand with his mangled, deformed hands and said "you're the only thing that make this place o.k. for me, everyday." i almost lost it right there, but i held it together cause crying in that moment just wouldn't have been right. this is a guy who was in a motor cycle accident, who came into the hospital as a rock...GCS of 1-1-1, which is essentially brain dead. he almost died in the unit so many times. but he's one of the ICU miracles. and i will always remember him as the guy that made it out.

i made him promise to walk back into the hospital and see me when he is better...i know he will.

Monday, July 24, 2006

satisfacer

i feel so satisfied lately.

i work long hours, but i'm like a sponge and i soak everything up that i don't know.

and even though i started on a rotation that is incredibly difficult, my having to keep myself afloat has made my initiation into doctorhood that much more expedient. i feel like a doctor. i feel like a surgeon, and that makes the days not seem so laborious.

and i love where i live.

i surf everyday.

yesterday i was out with my best friend an hour or so before sunset. we watched dolphins swim by and each caught a couple really beautiful waves. the water was warm and the sun seemed to take up half the horizon as it set. it was beautiful. and then i walked home...to my beautiful apartment. and i thought about how lucky i am. this is my best case scenario, it really is, and i am so thankful for it.

Wednesday, July 12, 2006

photos

the unit is still full of incredibly sick people, and there still hasn't been a day someone hasn't gotten shot. in fact, two nights ago (when i was on call) a 4 year old girl was shot in the belly. she is doing fine, but only after a major operation. a spent the whole day wondering how someone could do such a thing.

the other patient that has been consuming my thoughts is the young woman who was shot on the fourth of july. she continues to suffer, and is on something called ECMO now, which stands for extracorpeal membrane oxygenation. it is basically a lung bypass machine. after being shot and having surgery, she went into severe ARDS, which stands for acute respiratory distress syndrome. this is where the lungs basically become damaged, go into shock and are unable to oxygenate or ventillate the body. this condition has a very very high mortality rate. in trauma patients, especially young ones, there is hope that if you place them on ECMO, you can rest the lungs, give them time to heal, and the problem will reverse. being on ECMO, however, means that there is little else that can be done, and the patient is in serious danger of succumbing to their injuries. there are numerous complications to using ECMO, including bleeding to death because being put of the machine requires thining the blood out be able to run it through the "prosthetic lung".

so this young girl is on ECMO, and she has been getting blood transfusions at a rate of more than 12 units/day. her face and body are so swollen that you can barely make out her eyes, her lips, her nose, the creases in her palms or fingers. she is so sick. i have often wondered what she really looks like

yesterday when i came in to the unit her friends and family had hung up pictures of her all around her bed...on the cardiac monitor, above the headboard, on the lung bypass machine and on an IV pole. there were pictures everywhere, of a beautiful young woman, surrounded by her friends, smiling, glowing. i looked up at the pictures and down at her poor struggling body and a sadness just filled every part of me.

what an amazing family she has. even in putting up those pictures they force everyone to recognize that all the effort we are putting in is valid. that we really are working to save a life, not just an empty body lying on a bed.

a young woman 17 years old survived ECMO in our unit a few months ago...so there is hope that it can work again. but everyone says this woman is much more sick than the last. it will be a miracle if she survives.

the violence that effects this country, especially in the inner city, especially directed against blacks and other minorities, has never been this real. tupac and biggie and 50 cent and whoever else that raps about thug life weren't just making that stuff up. everytime i hear some of that on the radio on my way home from work, i can connect to it in a whole new way. i see the destruction that poverty and violence and guns cause. i see it and i am being trained to deal with it in a very practical way. guns are one of the worse tools we, as human beings, ever created.

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

stray bullets

the fourth of july is about patriotism, parades, fireworks, cookouts, and, as i found out last night, stray bullets.

i think last night was my 4th call, and each time i have stayed overnight a young black man or woman has gotten shot. last night it was an 17 year old woman. the surgical intensive care is basically the admitting unit for really sick trauma surgery patients. i, the SICU intern, am in charge of the unit patients.

usually, the trauma surgery team on call with me doesn't really give me warning about who is going to get admitted, usually because they come from the OR via the ER. the nurses in the unit always know that someone is on their way to the unit before I do. i thought it was just their innate wisdom, but after asking one of them, they told me they can always tell because the family collects outside the door.

at around 3am I left the unit to look at an xray downstairs and there were 20+ people in the hallway, family members of a young girl who had been shot through her chest. i walked past them all, their eyes all on me and wondered what kind of shape their loved one would be in.

in my first week of residency i have been the person that most family members talk to to find out how their loved one is doing. mostly because i'm the only spanish speaker, and i'm the only one who basically lives in the unit.

last night, i had a crowd of people around me as i explained that the young girl had been shot through her armpit, and that the bullet went through both lungs, pancreas, spleen, colon, and diaphragm.

most people looked into my eyes dazed, tearful, hanging on every word that i said. one of the more bold family members asked questions.

"what is the spleen?"
"can she live without it?"
"will she be able to walk again?"

and then she looked over at the father and asked the question everyone wanted to know.

"is she going to make it?"

i told her there was no way to know how she would do, but that she was stable.

"but doctor, have you ever seen someone like this, with gunshot wounds like this, make it through alive?"

i told her i had, but that no two patients are the same.

"all i wanted was a little bit of hope," she said.

i guess a little bit of hope has to be a good thing.
as i finished rounding and writing notes on all of the patients in the unit, i watch the crowd of people around the young girl's bed.

there were 4 girls her age, standing around her battered, bloody body. they talked to her, found a way to laugh, to try to make her less scared. although she was sedated and unable to respond, i know their dialogue with her was welcome.

i thought about how brave these young girls were, to stay by their friends side, while she was hooked up to monitors from every corner, dried blood on her face, eyes curled back under the influence of a sedative and a tube down her throat. she must have been hard to recognize.

i watch as they held it together in front of her, and broke down the minute their backs were to the bed.

i had few comforting words for them, but they were so appreciative of me. i felt it was undeserved, and instead thought about how them being there made the place seem more humane.

i look forward to the day where a young black man or woman escapes the trauma bay, and i can say that bullets aren't part of what this country is about.

Sunday, June 25, 2006

time

just as a prologue, i just spent the better part of an hour writing this entry and i lost it...so i'm tired and this will bit a bit more choppy than my last one.

time has different meanings throughout different points in life.

time is something i value now more than i ever have.

today was my first day of work in the hospital as a doctor.

i woke up this morning at 5:45 and drove to work missing a multiple myeloma walk that i spent the last 2 weeks helping plan. i missed it so that i could learn how to run the surgical intensive care unit, by myself, if needed.

at 11am i was released from duty and given tomorrow (sunday) off. i know that this block of time off is a huge gift and i probably won't have another juicy moment like this for a while.

so i came home with my mom, who is visiting to help make seal beach, california feel more like home. i came home to an empty bed and no one to break down my thoughts with. my parents and i talk, but we've never had the sort of relationship where we talk and talk and talk. there's a lot of silences, comfortable silence, but still, silence. it's just the way it is.

and now i know why people get married so soon after they start working, cause it must be really nice to have someone to come home to. a permanent date, a guaranteed good time. even if it means just sitting around eating ice cream and talking. it's a good time because someone chose to do that instead of anything else, because they wanted to spend time with you.

i would really love to have someone to come home to. but i know that won't happen this year, because my life just isn't set up that way.

i already feel so alone and it sucks.

maybe i just need a dog or something. just some love. some warm, real love.

but that wouldn't be fair to the dog because i would probably neglect it. so it's probably better that i don't have a husband or a boyfriend or even a friend, because loving me is going to be a huge sacrifice this year.

so tonight i'm not thinking about the 39 year old man with down's syndrome and necrotizing testicles whose dressings i have to change everyday, or the 21 year old woman who was shot just inches above her subclavian artery or the woman who was hit by a car while walking home who is struggling or the man whose lungs look so white they barely look alive. i'm thinking about how impossible i just made it for anyone to love me. that is what is dominating my worries on my first real day as a doctor...how will anyone even think their precious time is worth investing in me. a depressing thought, i know, but one which you can only understand if you're a single woman about to become a surgeon. it's nothing like grey's anatomy people. it really isn't.

the scalpel really isn't sexy, not if you're a woman.

Thursday, June 15, 2006

grand lake party 2006






we had such a good time.

i really really didn't want to leave.

what a blessing to have that time in that place.

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

the move

seems that everytime i leave someplace it gets harder and harder, because the older i get, the less i want to uproot and start over. so i am sitting in the middle of the mess that is my apartment, enjoying some of the last quiet moments in my building, listening to the raindrops patter against the window and the leaves rustling on my lovely tree outside. i'm saying good-bye to chicago, the only place that has been home to me since my father uprooted us from miami. i have been here 7 years, and although the winters were always a struggle, this city took me in and treated me well.

i'm packing up my life and driving out to california. i'm moving to seal beach...orange county, where i will live in an overpriced 1BR apartment half a block from the ocean. i'm hoping this proximity to the water will make it feel like home, even though the water out there is cold, and the breeze coming off the water isn't thick and salty like the tropics...it's still the ocean. to be honest, i'm scared. i'm scared of being so far away from everything that is familiar to me. i hope my proximity to the ocean will comfort me...i hope when i leave the windows open i can hear the waves crashing, cause it's going to be a tough year, for so many reasons. i start surgery internship...without the comfort of knowing i have a permanent place in the program. i will have to prove myself. prove myself while i am learning how to take care of really sick people. people sick enough to need to be opened up with a knife. i am excited about it, but i know it's going to be hard. and i'm glad to be getting away from chicago, but it certainly is a big move. it doesn't feel like i'm going home...it's going to take a while to feel like that...i still barely know the difference between northern and southern california.

anyway, i don't know if it's the jetlag or the butterflies in my stomach, but something is keeping me up at night. i was up until 6:15 in the morning last night. and i am exhausted, but i have to pack. i spent last night googling my college boyfriend who cheated on me. he has written 3 or 4 books since college...on economic development in southeast asia. he's a visiting professor at all of these universities. before all the nasty shit went down with us (i.e. before he slept with someone else multiple times) i told him that he better not ever lose his passion for education in the 3rd world, he better not sell out and just be a drug rep. he was better than that. all this time i have been hoping that he was a complete sell-out in every aspect of his life cause he totally sold me out, but he's not. he's doing amazing things, and he's an expert in his field...educating stuggling economic and educational systems in vietnam and singapore and laos. and for some reason that makes me feel like shit, because he's doing something great with his life, and he's not a horrible person. but what he did to me was so horrible so after all these years i still struggle to reconcile these truths.

leaving chicago means leaving all of those memories i have with him...and that to me is a huge relief, because i still think of him everytime i pass certain streets or restaurants or stadiums. and i won't have those associations anymore.

life just moves...and some things just stick, no matter how hard you try to let them go.

the good and the bad.

better than nothing sticking at all.

Friday, May 19, 2006

almost forgot















the title of medical doctor was bestowed upon me. and i was surrounded by everyone i love. my best friend from college even flew in to surprise me all the way from boston.

my aunt nancy did a special ceramony for me at home cause she couldn't make the graduation.

my best friend ami watched the webcast from japan.

my aunt barbara gave me my grandfather's framed diploma from the 1940s.

my dad seemed overwhelmed by how proud he was. i have never seen him that way.

my dipti wrote a personalized, very special oath for me to take, which i recited in my living room.

all of these things nearly brought me to tears. it was a day to celebrate not this title, but accomplishment and perseverance. because i honestly never thought i would make it.

terracotta soldiers




yesterday was perhaps the craziest, but the most rewarding day in china. this is the first time in my life that i have been just a tourist...on an organized tour...following guides with little flags and wearing a name badge. at first, i really didn't like it, but these guides can arrange things that you could never do yourself in the time that you have. yesterday we were in 3 cities. we started in beijing, flew to xi'an, and then ended up in shanghi. i couldn't believe we pulled it off.

we spent the day at what will most definitely be the 8th wonder of the world. during the ming dynasty, the emperor decided to create a massive tomb for himself. this was pretty normal behavior for an emperor...but this man went the extra mile, literally. from what the tourguide told us, the chinese believed that when they died, the took with them everything they were buried with to the afterlife. so, in order to protect himself emperor quing-something (can't remember his name at the moment) decided to be progressive and people his tomb with terracotta warriors. this is progressive because most emperors just buried themselves with live soldiers...and they were alive when they were entombed, traditionally. he, like us, thought that slightly cruel, so decided instead to devote 36 years to building and army of terracotta warriors to take with him. their existence or location wasn't known until a farmer happened upon them in 1974 when digging a well.

since 1974, the chinese people have uncovered thousands of life size terracotta warriors, each handmade by individual artisans. it's amazing because each soldier is different, not just in dress and rank, but in facial expression. it is quite a thing to see, probably the most impressive single thing i have ever seen in my life. the figures are so life-like, and there are so many of them. there are arches and cavalrymen, officers and charioteers. there are animals, horses, chickens, dogs. it's amazing. there really aren't enough adjectives to describe what this monument is like, and the amount of work that not only went in to creating them, but the work that has been done to restore them.

the tomb was actually discovered by farmers after the ming dynasty, but they didn't care much for them, because they were only made of clay, not gold or bronze or anything of value. so the farmers burned the support beams of the tomb and destroyed all of the warriors. since their discovery, chinese archeologists have, been excavating and putting these guys broken fragments back together by hand and then moving them back to their original spot. it's absolutely amazing. there are more than 8000 soldiers and thousands of horses and other animals and carriages. what a job they have. they said it will take 200 years to completely finish the excavation and restoration.

i'm not going to lie, i saw the whole thing as if it were a big puzzle. i wanted to jump over the fence and join in the digging and the putting back together. i love that kind of thing. i could sit there happily putting soldiers back together for eternity. i guess i will have to settle for putting real people back together.

anyway, there are so many other stories that we were told about the tomb and the restoration and the emperor, but i will hold off cause i'm tired. i was just enamored with the place, i wanted to stay there forever. if you have the chance to go to xi'an to see the terracotta warrior museum, please go, it's really worth it. it is one of the most beautiful creations i will ever see.

the rest of the trip has been great. i have been pampered, staying in 5 star hotels, everything taken care of. i've been eating great food and been shuttled around in massive air conditioned tour buses. very very spoiled am i. i still say that i would rather stay in hostels and eat on the street bumbling around with a lonely planet and a good friend, but i'll live in my parents' world for a little while and be gratful for the experience. i will be so grateful, because who gets to do this? hardly anyone.

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

SimCity China


China is a crazy place. We got here and after driving from the airport to the hotel, the first thing my mom said was "this is totally not what I expected. I don't know what I was expecting, but this isn't it." What she meant was, she wasn't expecting to see huge highrise after highrise lined up like perfectly planted rows of corn. She didn't expect to see traffic jams of brand new cars, VWs, audi's, hondas, bmws. China is truly in the process of developing, and it's doing so at lightening speed, right before our eyes. and the developing has been accelerated by the upcoming 2008 olympics in beijing,which, by law, forces all construction to be done by 2008. and it will be done, because things get done in china. the tour guide said "for the chinese people, nothing is impossible." and that's true.

it seems that two things have helped erase a lot of the historical parts of beijing: progress and the cultural revolution. for practicality's sake...thing have had to be torn down...the hotung style houses and the old city gates torn down to make way for wider highways and taller buildings. and back in the 80s a lot of things were destroyed by the cultural revoltion, which even the government-hired tour guides will admit was a mistake. i have been searching for culture. i told my dad i wanted to get a better feel for beijing. his response was "how can you get a feel for beijing...it's too big for that." i have never been so overwhelmed by the expanse of a place. it's not dense like new york...there aren't people crowded into every corner. it's spread out, but because there are so many people...it's REALLY spread out. it seems like it goes on forever. there are very few quaint parts of beijing, it's all monstrous. picture yourself as one of the characters in "honey, i shrunk the kids." that's what it's like.

everything is new. cars, buildings, roads, even the ancient temples have all recently been restored. this is what gives it a disneyland feel. today we went to the "temple of heaven" which is where the emperor use to go every summer to pray for the country, etc. we walked in and the guy standing next to me asked "what's that smell?" I said it smelled like fresh paint...and it was. they had just finished restoring the temple 7 days ago. the chinese removed every single tile from the roof (and there are a lot of tiles) re-glazed them and put them back. it took over a year. everything was bright and colorful.

another thing i've noticed is there is a separate job for absolutely everything here. there's a guy that gets paid to post the morning paper on these huge bulletin boards all over the city. and other guy wears a red hat and a red banner across his chest and holds a little red flag. he stands at an intersection snd makes sure that pedestrians and bikes stop when the traffic light turns red. there are one or two of these people on every single intersection. not just one side of the intersection...all 8 sides. and they stand there all day. amazing.

tomorrow i'm headed to shanghi. i've heard there is so much money there i will be in awe. imagining anything more shiny and new than beijing is difficult, but i guess "new" and "wealthy" are totally different. we'll see i guess.